Loft bedrooms get the worst of every bedroom problem. Ceilings slope at inconsistent angles. Chimney breasts stick out where you want hanging space. Rafters leave two inches of flat ceiling in exactly the wrong place.
Off-the-shelf wardrobes are built on the assumption that walls are square and ceilings are flat. Neither is true in a loft. Here are the ten questions we work through on the first visit.
- What is the lowest usable height for hanging? Shirts need 1.1m; dresses and coats need 1.65m. If a corner is 90cm, it becomes shelving, not hanging.
- Where is the apex, and does it run along or across the room? The apex is the only full-height run; it usually gets double hanging.
- What is behind the chimney breast? Often insulated void — scribing a wardrobe to it lets us pick up 20–30cm of hidden storage.
- Are the walls scribed timber or plasterboard? Plasterboard needs plywood packers to carry a sliding track.
- Is there a loft hatch to preserve? If yes, the carcass splits around it rather than blocking it.
- Will a Velux window interrupt a run? Often, yes. We stop the wardrobe short and build in a dressing table or window seat.
- How are the eaves accessed? Soft-close drop-down doors or push-to-open panels, depending on the depth.
- Hinged doors or sliders? Sliders need a full-height, straight wall. Hinged doors tolerate every slope.
- What goes inside? Hanging, drawers, shoe racks, mirror, lighting — all drawn in elevation before we cut.
- What is the budget cap? A single run in a loft bedroom typically falls £5,000 to £12,000.
Once we have the answers we draw every elevation, sign them off with you, and build the lot in the Southport workshop. One pair of hands from the first visit to the last hinge adjustment.
